Longwood Gardens Sandra waltzes through the lofty conservatories, dramatic water fountain displays, and immaculate grounds of one of the world’s great gardens, and leaves impressed by the passion and imagination of its creator.
America’s Longwood Gardens in Pennsylvania is one of the greatest gardens of the world. Picture a staggering 445 hectares of gardens, woodlands and meadows; 20 outdoor gardens; 20 indoor gardens within 4 acres of heated greenhouses and 11,000 different species of plants!
The fanfare is the result of a family endeavour. In 1906, Pierre Du Pont, a wealthy industrialist, purchased the property in order to save a historic collection of trees from the lumber mill. His preservation efforts blossomed into a fully-fledged passion for gardening and he ended up funding the entire complex of gardens, water fountains and glass conservatories. Over the past century, Longwood Gardens has matured into one of the world’s greatest horticultural showplaces. Now it operates as a not-for-profit private foundation and is funded by bequests and the income generated by admissions and event ticket sales.
The brisk autumn morning I’m due to experience all that is Longwood, I arrive at the Visitors Centre ticket office early. I’m anxious to gain entry before the garden is crowded with too many visitors. Yet I soon discover I need not have worried. It seems that 1,050 acres can absorb a lot of people before you notice you’re not alone. The group I’m with are promptly met by a charming young horticulturist, Mark Richardson, who proceeds to walk us out into the Cow Lot, a large, open expanse of lawn with specimen trees. Clear skies and crisp nights have caused the foliage to change colour as sugars become trapped in the leaves and are converted into red pigments. The dogwoods (Cornus kousa), take our attention, with their delicious-looking, red-orange fruit that resembles plump raspberries. Making our way down past the open-air theatre, we walk into the first flower garden Pierre created at Longwood, the Flower Garden Walk. It was established just a short distance from the house in 1907 and housed a fountain – the first of many fountains Pierre had appear throughout Longwood Gardens. They were quite a passion for him. Today, the flower borders of the Flower Garden Walk are an eye-catching mix of annuals and perennials, carefully graduated in colour from cool purples to warm reds finishing with creams and whites. We walk past divine tibouchinas, salvias, cannas and chrysanthemums.
Upon entering Pierce’s Wood, we’re faced with a total change of scene. Magnificent sugar maples are changing colour. They are under-planted with faded flowers of lace-cap and oak-leaf hydrangeas. A large lake stretches ahead reflecting the soft autumnal scene - its classic rotunda makes an elegant focus. We walk around this lake, and drink in its serenity, such a dramatic contrast from the structured design of the flower gardens.
We are lucky to catch the water display in the Italian Water Garden (we just slipped in - they turn it off for winter). It was designed by Pierre to reflect Villa Gamberaia near Florence and was completed in 1927. Completely restored in 1992, it boasts pruned small-leaf linden trees, clipped ivy, green lawns, six large and 12 small pools with 600 jets and a water staircase that recirculates 4,500 gallons of water each minute. Naturally, it’s quite spectacular.
Next, we wander across to Pierce’s Park, through the original arboretum of native and exotic trees, once considered to be the finest collection of trees in the nation, before enjoying a languorous lunch at the Terrace Restaurant, near the Conservatory.
Refreshed and invigorated, we spend our next hour in the delightful complex of conservatories. Inspired by the success of his first humble glass conservatory, Pierre Du Pont planned a larger glasshouse. In 1921, after three years in construction, the main conservatory opened, featuring a large Orangery and Exhibition Hall with adjoining glasshouses full of frost- and cold-sensitive flowering plants. This was opened to the public, along with the outdoor gardens. Once planted with orange trees, the Orangery is now planted with ever-blooming, ever-changing flower beds and lawns.
October 2005 saw the restoration of the East Conservatory, a beautiful blend of understated elegance, good design and exquisite horticulture, the hallmark of Longwood Gardens. The spacious conservatory includes a series of intimate and distinct spaces inspired by Moorish, French and Modernist styles. It’s dazzling, yet Longwood has still more to offer us!
Next stop is the display of giant Amazon water lilies (Victoria amazonica), the largest of all the water lilies. The plant’s leaves that reach 3m in diameter and the flower stalks stretch 7-8 m high. In this protected courtyard, five pools grow an extensive range of aquatic plants.
At 2pm, we step out onto the Conservatory Terrace to witness the spectacle of the fountains. Inspired by Chicago’s 1893 World Colombian Exhibition, Pierre Du Pont set out to create the ultimate fountain display at Longwood. A system of pumps propels 45,500 litres of water a minute high up into the sky – a dramatic spray that shoots 40m from the ground. This Main Fountain terrace garden is eclectic and ornate – and we all agree this is water theatre at its best. Just as Pierre Du Pont would have expected it to be.
Come with us!
Longwood is open every day of the year and attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over the world. If you’ve been inspired to travel to the gardens of America, we have a new itinerary planned for 2008. Call Ross Tours on 1800 809 348, email travel@rosstours.com or visit www.rosstours.com