Quince

The downy golden globes of quince grow best in cooler areas, and taste best when slow-cooked to a ruby richness. Libby Cameron explains how to grow them; Maggie Beer knows how to cook them.

Was there ever a more exotically named fruit than the quince? The quandong perhaps, but then it doesn't lay claim to being a member of the Rose family, as does the not-so-humble quince. Botanically known as the Cydonia oblonga, the quince tree is deciduous and bears white or pink flowers that mature to produce golden, sweetly fragrant fruit. Despite their exotic ring, trees are easy to grow, reaching a height and width up to 5m. They are frost hardy and adapt to a wide range of climates from the cooler parts of subtropics to cool highland regions. In areas with mild winters and humid summers, the fruit can be small and prone to disease. A soft grey down coats the fruit, new shoots and the undersides of leaves.

Position

Quince trees prefer a sunny position, with protection from the wind. The fruit may be firm, but it is easily bruised and marked if it moves around too much in the wind and weather.

Soil

Quince trees do best in soil that is heavy and moist. They tolerate poor drainage and prefer a slightly acid soil as they are susceptible to iron deficiency.

Planting guide

Plant quince trees in June or July into soil that has been prepared with added manure or compost. Mulch well and water frequently during the growing season. Young trees produce minimal fruit for the first five years.

Feeding guide

In areas with good soil, quince trees need little supplementary feeding. During spring, apply a dressing of fertilizer rich in nitrogen, such as cow manure, Dynamic Lifter or Organic Life to encourage plenty of flower-bearing shoots.

Pruning guide

Trim shoots from young trees to establish a single trunk, and remove any suckers that emerge from the roots. Quince trees need little pruning, but you may wish to prune yours each season to give it shape and to create a framework, strong enough to support the weight of the ripening fruit. Prune to the shape of an open-centred vase, as you would apple and pear trees. Quince trees may be espaliered (trained to grow flat on a wall, a trellis or similar framework) but bear in mind that flowers develop on new shoots in spring for autumn fruit and don't be tempted to remove all the flowering shoots that may grow in the wrong direction.

Pests and diseases

As with apples and pears, fruit fly and codling moth are the most common pests for quinces. Both may be treated with Yates Fruit Fly & Insect Killer. Don't use Carbaryl as it will burn the leaves. Fleck diseases (those that show as small reddish brown spots) can be a problem for quince trees in coastal areas with high rainfall. Control by raking up all fallen leaves in autumn. Fungicide sprays can also help.

Tips

Harvest fruit from the quince tree when it is yellow gold, or a little before, to beat the local birds. The 'Mummery's Seedling', 'Smyrna' and 'de Vranja' varieties are moderately resistant to fleck and produce good quality fruit in warmer regions. Store the fruit in a cool place, not touching, and it will last up to 6 weeks.

Recipe: Quince Yeast Cake

This recipe from Maggie Beer's new book Maggie's Table (Lantern, $45) piles luscious quinces on a yeasty cake and is perfect for afternoon tea.

15g fresh yeast or 1.5 teaspoons dried yeast

1 teaspoon castor sugar

warm water

150g unbleached plain flour

2 small free-range eggs

45g softened unsalted butter

3 Pot-Roasted Quinces*

Mix the yeast and castor sugar with 100ml of warm water in a small bowl and set aside for 5-10 minutes until frothy. Combine the yeast mixture, flour and eggs in the bowl of an electric mixer. Beat in the softened butter until the dough is shiny and soft. If it is dry, add a little extra warm water. Cover the dough with plastic film and leave in a draught-free spot until doubled in volume, about 2 hours, or leave it overnight in the refrigerator.

If you have let your dough rise in the fridge overnight, allow it to come to room temperature before proceeding. Butter a 22cm springform cake tin and gently flatten the dough over the base of the tin. Cut one of the quinces in half and cut away the core. Arrange both halves in the middle of the dough, cut-side uppermost. Slice the remaining quinces thickly and arrange these around the edge of the dough. Leave the cake to rise in a draught-free spot for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200C. Melt a little of the jelly from the quinces and brush this over the surface of the risen cake. Bake for 35-40 minutes. Allow the cake to cool for 20 minutes before removing it from the tin. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 8.

*Pot-roasted quinces

Rub the down from six 'Smyrna' quinces and wash them. Pack them tightly into a large heavy-based non-reactive saucepan, then cover with 1.25 litres of water and five cups of sugar. Bring to the boil and cook until a jelly starts to form, then turn to a gentle simmer, and simmer for 5-6 hours. Keep the quinces submerged by covering with a piece of foil and an upturned plate. Turn the fruit regularly to ensure even cooking. Add the juice of three lemons in the last stage of cooking to cut the sweetness.