Bring winter colour in
PANSIES AND POLYANTHUS BRIGHTEN POTS,
hanging baskets and sunny beds with winter colour. For shade, try cyclamen, primula and cineraria. Hellebores add charm in morning sun, while Iceland poppies bloom now if planted on Anzac Day. Fragrant daphne prefers semi- shade and well-drained soil. Japonica camellias flower through winter and suit gardens or pots. Geraldton wax ( Chamelaucium ), an iconic Australian native, produces masses of winter–spring flowers, makes excellent cut flowers and works well as a screening shrub – trim after flowering.
Start a thriving rhubarb patch
DREAMING OF DELICIOUS RHUBARB CRUMBLE?
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Now’s the time to plant dormant crowns (mid to late winter) in a sunny spot with well-drained, nutrient-rich soil.
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Plant crowns 5cm deep, with top buds just visible. Space them 1m apart.
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Water regularly but avoid overwatering. Spread well-rotted manure or compost
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around each crown in late winter, then mulch to retain moisture. Don’t harvest in the first year, allow the roots to establish.
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Begin harvesting in the second year by pulling stems about 30cm long. Divide plants every 4–5 years to keep them productive. Rhubarb will also grow in a container holding at least 45 litres (10 gallons). And remember, the leaves are poisonous!
Grow your own asparagus
PLANT DORMANT CROWNS 15-20CM DEEP
in sunny, well-draining soil during winter and early spring. Create a permanent, weed- free bed, as they can last more than 20 years. Space crowns 30-50cm apart, covering with soil and wait 2-3 years before full harvesting to allow good root establishment.
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Herb your enthusiasm
HERBS GROW QUICKLY,
making them a rewarding crop that can be harvested just a few weeks after planting. Parsley, coriander, thyme, oregano, chives and marjoram can all be planted now in a sunny garden or in pots. These herbs prefer low nutrient soil, which helps them develop their essential oils. Mint, rocket and parsley do better in richer, slightly more water-retentive soil and they also thrive in pots.
Care for citrus
ONCE YOUR CITRUS WINTER CROP HAS BEEN HARVESTED,
now's the time for pruning, mulching and fertilising, to set up your citrus tree for the year ahead. Remove dead or diseased wood and prune any stems with galls before August. Trim low branches under 1m to improve air circulation and reduce pests, and keep the tree around 3m for easy harvesting, pruning a few branches each year to preserve flowers. Spray for pests: eco-oil monthly for scale, remove white louse scale then use lime sulphur and treat aphids or leaf miner with eco oil and eco-neem as needed. After fruiting, fertilise with pelletised manure around the drip line and water well, then mulch the root zone with compost or a nutritious mulch.
Put roots down
ONE ESSENTIAL WINTER TASK IS BARE-ROOT PLANTING.
Whether you’ve ordered fruit trees online or bought a rose bush or berry plant (raspberry, loganberry) from your local garden centre, the principles are the same.
Here’s how:
STEP 1.
Trim any damaged roots and soak the root ball in diluted liquid seaweed to rehydrate.
STEP 2.
Dig a generously sized hole to fit the roots and allow room for growth.
STEP 3.
Pour a bucket of water into the hole to check drainage. If it drains slowly, mix in grit or raise the soil level.
STEP 4.
Add compost or well- rotted cow manure and mix gently with the existing soil.
STEP 5.
Place the plant in the hole, spreading the roots carefully. Backfill, forming a shallow saucer around the base to funnel water to the roots.
STEP 6.
Water thoroughly with a dilute seaweed solution to settle the soil and remove air pockets. Stake the plant in windy spots and label it with its name and planting date.