Small individual soufflés can teeter on being too formal for home cooking. A bit prissy even. A large soufflé is sassy. Holding herself aloft with enough attitude to wow any crowd. There is nothing to be nervous about in soufflé-making. Just follow the recipe, get the oven hot before it goes in, don’t open the door too early, and – most importantly – make sure whoever you are feeding is at the table ready for when the soufflé comes out of the oven and before it deflates. Serve with lightly dressed leaves, a bowl of new potatoes, and dry white wine – which should all also be prepared and waiting.
Serves 4–6 as a main.

What you need
25g Parmesan (or a strong, hard goats’ cheese)
55g butter
40g plain (all-purpose) flour
400ml whole milk
200g soft goats’ cheese 3 egg yolks 4 egg whites 20g soft herb leaves (any mix of tarragon, chives mint, basil, dill) salt and black pepper
18–20cm soufflé dish
Method
Preheat the oven to 190°C fan with a baking tray inside. Finely grate the Parmesan. Melt 15g of the butter in a medium saucepan and brush the inside of the soufflé dish with it. Scatter over the grated Parmesan to coat the sides, shake off any excess, and set the prepped dish aside. Melt the rest of the butter in the same pan over a low–medium heat. Add the flour and whisk for a couple of minutes, then whisk in the milk, adding it slowly at first. Turn the heat up a little and simmer for 3–4 minutes, whisking all the time, until the sauce thickens. Pour into a large mixing bowl. Crumble 125g of the goats’ cheese into the sauce and mix it in to melt. Whisk in the egg yolks, then season. Up to this point can be done ahead. Put the egg whites into a separate and very clean mixing bowl. Whisk until they’re stiff but not dry. You should be able to just about tip the bowl upside the rest of the butter in the same pan over a low–medium heat. Add the flour and whisk for a couple of minutes, then whisk in the milk, adding it slowly at first. Turn the heat up a little and simmer for 3–4 minutes, whisking all the time, until the sauce thickens. Pour into a large mixing bowl. Crumble 125g of the goats’ cheese into the sauce and mix it in to melt. Whisk in the egg yolks, then season. Up to this point can be done ahead. Put the egg whites into a separate and very clean mixing bowl. Whisk until they’re stiff but not dry. You should be able to just about tip the bowl upside down without them falling. Chop the rest of the goats’ cheese into small pieces and crumble into the soufflé mix. Chop the herb leaves and mix those in, then gently fold in the egg whites keeping as much air as possible – a few streaks of white are fine. Put the dish into the oven immediately, onto the hot baking tray, and bake for 25–30 minutes. It’s ready when golden, risen, and with just a gentle wobble when you move the dish. Under no circumstances be tempted to open the oven door to check on it until it’s been in for at least 20 minutes. Serve straight away.
About the book

Seasoning by Angela Clutton, spans the four seasons of the year, with insights into over 50 vegetables and fruits. Published by Murdoch Books, RRP $55.00.
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